All natural, ready to use organic humus. A blended mixture which may contain peat hummus, compost, bark chips, sphagnum peat moss, sand, perlite, and/composted manure. Stockpiled for 3 to 6 months, turned, aerated regularly and heat pasteurized naturally. All organic materials contain natural inherent bacteria for the breakdown or decomposition of organic matter.
1 cubic ft (cf)/40 lb bag
SKU 7014814
Steer Manure
Natural organic & garden fertilizer which may contain peat hummus, compost, bark chips, sphagnum peat moss, sand, perlite, and/composted manure. Stockpiled for 3 to 6 months, turned, aerated regularly and heat pasteurized naturally. All organic materials contain natural inherent bacteria for the breakdown or decomposition of organic matter.
1 cubic ft/40 lb bag
SKU 7014830
Chicken Manure
Composted for a rich final product with a high nutrient (3-2-2) level that won’t burn roots.
1 cubic ft
SKU 7192743
Whitney Farms
Bark Mulch
Made of Douglas Fir bark from the Pacific Northwest
Adds organic matter to garden soils with this blended mixture which will contain from 30% to 70% composted animal manures and may contain bark fines, blood and/or bone, feather, and/or kelp meals, sphagnum peat moss, rice hulls, sunflower hull ash, and/or volcanic pumice.
1.5 cubic ft (cf)
SKU 7192776
Cedar Grove
Compost
1 cubic ft
SKU CG2
Ace Compost
Adds nutrients to soil. May contain peat hummus, compost, bark chips, sphagnum peat moss, sand, perlite, and/composted manure. Stockpiled for 3 to 6 months, turned, aerated regularly and heat pasteurized naturally. All organic materials contain natural inherent bacteria for the breakdown or decomposition of organic matter.
1.5 cubic ft
SKU 7014822
Whitney Farms
Potting Soil
Ready to use general purpose potting soil blended for both indoor and outdoor use. Formulated for good drainage resistance to compaction with good water and nutrient retention. Recommended for all types of container gardening, hanging baskets, raised bed gardens, and indoor plants. PH balanced between 6.2 and 6.8. No need to fertilize for the first 30 days. Composition/ingredients includes 40% to 95% softwood bark & sawdust and may contain sphagnum peat moss, perlite, pumice, sand, composted animal manure, dried poultry waste, blood meal, bone meal, alfalfa meal, sunflower hull ash, kelp meal, feather meal, bat guano, dolomite lime and/or limestone.
Blend of peat, special sands & horticultural vermiculite. Also a planting mix appropriate for trees & shrubs. All natural, ready to use
indoor or outdoor.
1.5 cubic ft (40 lbs)
SKU 7014848
Peat Moss
Conditions all soils by improving aeration water drainage and nutrient/water retention. Used as a soil amendment for gardens as well as preparation and restoration for lawns. For indoor and outdoor horticultural applications. NOTE: Peat is a non-renewable, harvested plant source from bogs like those found in the everglades. Consider “BeatsPeat,” made from coconut coir and grown throughout the tropical world.
Annuals & Perennials
Annuals complete their life cycle in a single growing season; perennials live for at least three typical growing seasons.
Compost
A mixture that contains a large amount of decayed or decaying organic matter used to fertilize, mulch, and/or amend a soil's structure.
Cover Crop
A crop planted to control weeds and add humus to protect the soil when it is plowed in prior to regular planting. Buckwheat, clover, and winter rye are common cover crops.
Fertilizers
The use of organic or inorganic plant foods which may be either liquid or granular to amend the soil in order to improve the quality or quantity of plant growth. Slow-Release Fertilizer is type of fertilizer formulated to be inactive until released by water or temperature. They also activate slowly over a period of time (e.g., 3-month or 6-month formulations). Application time and methods can vary; choose and use fertilizers wisely and to follow label instructions carefully.
Nitrogen: Promotes vigorous above-the-ground growth, gives grass & plants a lush, green color. The first number on fertilizer packages (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium).
Phosphate: Promotes good root growth; stimulates flower & fruit blooms. The second number on fertilizer packages (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium).
Potash: Benefits the whole plant to withstand heat, cold, and drought stresses. The third number on fertilizer packages (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium).
Herbicide
A chemical used to kill specific plants or all plants in its path, usually weed.
Insecticide
A synthetic or organic chemical used to kill or repel undesired insects around plants or people.
Lime
Lime is a compound of calcium, often used to alter soil chemistry by neutralizing acid, making soil more alkaline. Lime should be applied only when soil testing indicates that it is needed. Lime adjusts soil chemistry — it is not a fertilizer.
Mulch
A material that can be placed around plants to maintain soil temperature and trap in moisture, the freezing of roots, hinder the growth of weeds, and for aesthetic purposes in landscaping. Mulch can also improve soil fertility and structure, reduce pest and disease damage, and prevent erosion. There are many organic materials that make good mulch: leaves, straw, bark, peat, grass clippings, and aged sawdust.
Nitrogen
Promotes vigorous above-the-ground growth, gives grass & plants a lush, green color. The first number on fertilizer packages (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium).
Overseeding
Broadcasting seeds on top of existing garden, lawn, or grass. For example, rye grass spread over lawns for winter or wildflower seed over a meadow.
Perennials & Annuals
Plants that live for at least three typical growing seasons.
Pesticide
Any substance used to control or kill pests such as insects, weeds, birds, mammals, fish, or microbes.
Phosphate
Promotes good root growth; stimulates flower & fruit blooms. The second number on fertilizer packages (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium).
Potash
Benefits the whole plant to withstand heat, cold, and drought stress. The first number on fertilizer packages (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium).
Soil pH
The chemistry of your soil. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil (“sour”), a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil (“sweet”). Soil pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit. Balancing soil chemistry is a long term project that can take several seasons of amendments.
Thatch
Thatch is a layer of dead roots, lawn debris, and dead grass crown that accumulates between the grass blades and the soil surface. Thatch over 1/2" thick invites pests and disease and can cause runoff of water and fertilizers.
Seasonal Checklist ~ Regular maintenance makes your home more secure, your yard and garden more attractive, your life easier, and can save you money . . . sounds like a good idea! Let us help. ~
Tips that will make your yard thrive this year from the Ace “Helpful Hardware Man” Lou Manfredini.
For home gardeners, focused on environmentally friendly gardening practices
It's easy being green.
Let King County show you how.
Dedicated to end the senseless torture and mutilation of trees & shrubs Classes
Teaching people how to improve their environment by using organic gardening techniques. Seattle Tilth classes
Gardening in western Washington
Healthy soil. Healthy earth.
Grow healthy, natural plants and vegetables with Whitney Farms organic products — found throughout the western United States.
FAQ
Coming Someday
Rodent & Pest Control
Coming Someday
Seedling Starting Directions ~ Start your own seedlings to be sure your plants are raised organically from the beginning.
Growing your own food is fun, cheap, & satisfying. ~
Seedling Starter Supplies, available at Maple Leaf Ace
Containers and a Holding tray
A Seed Starter tray or small pots for initial planting and 2 to 4 inch pots for repotting at 4 to 12 weeks. The containers should sit in a tray that holds excess water. Our Mini-Greenhouse Seed Starter includes a holding tray, a tray of containers, and a dome (see plastic below).
Watering device
A watering can and/or a spray bottle to mist is very useful.
Grower’s mix (aka Seed Starters mix)
Lighter than regular soil this mix allows seedlings to germinate (emerge) easier. An ideal mix should include ingredients like sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, starter fertilizer, wetting agent, and lime for ph balance.
Seeds
Always read seed package for specific instructions.
Labels You think you will remember, but you won’t. Just use them and avoid confusion.
Light source -
A shop fluorescent bulb lighting system. Use one cool bulb and one warm bulb for the optimal light.
Light timer
Some people will remember to turn on and off the light source, but most people appreciate this.
Chains & Hooks Use these to keep the light source close to the soil and seedlings.
Plastic bag or plastic sheeting
To "dome" over the seedlings before they germinate
Canning If you haven’t tried it before, canning & preserving is much simpler than you may think. Just follow some basic rules. Don’t be intimidated! These instructions are for Water Bath Canning*.
Step 1 Prep your equipment
Inspect, wash thoroughly, and air dry.
Step 2 Prepare the food
Whether you choose to buy your fruits & veggies or pick them yourself, choose produce that is not overripe — in fact, adding in a few pieces that are slightly under ripe is a good thing. Use a recipe or read the back of a jam/jelly package to wash, peel, and cut to recommended size or consistency. Add sugar/spices/vinegar/acids as directed by your recipe.
Step 3 Pack food
into hot jars
Use the funnel to pour liquids, food, or place food in hot jars. Fill it up as your recipe directs. Carefully run a wooden or other non-metallic spatula down through the ingredients to release any trapped air bubbles.
Wipe the jar rims with a clean, damp cloth to remove all traces of food on the rims. Place a cap on each jar and screw the lid band onto the jar firmly but do not over tighten.
Step 4 Process jars.*
Fill the canner with hot water. Place the jars on the Canner Rack, adding water if necessary to cover the jars by an inch or two.
Cover with lid and bring the water to a full rolling boil. Boil for the time stated in your recipe. A rough guide is about 5 to 10 minutes for pickles, 10 minutes for jam, about 20 to 30 minutes for fruit, fruit pie fillings, and applesauce, and 30 to 45 minutes or more for tomatoes. (Timing begins when water returns to a full boil.)
Turn off heat; use jar tongs to remove jars from water. Place jars on a dish towel or absorbent mat. Allow to cool several hours or overnight.
You’ll most likely get to hear the lovely, popping sound, which will indicate your lids have sealed correctly. Your Canning Book will have advice on how to check the seals and how to store the jars.
Step 5 Finishing up!
Always label your jars with the prep details (boiling time, temperature) and the date, then store them in a dark, cool area. And when you give them away for the holidays, don’t tell anyone how simple it was!
* Beginners should start with high acid foods that can be safely canned by using the easy boiling water bath method. This is a method that preserves food at the temperature of boiling water, 212 degrees, using inexpensive equipment. Tomatoes and most other fruits are high in acid and are great to start out canning with. If you want to can low acid items, you will have to use a pressure canner which is a bit more complicated and a bit more costly.
What is the correct equipment for Water Bath Processing? Check out our Supply List
Large lidded canner stockpot
A canner must be deep enough to completely immerse the jars with 1 to 2 inches of water covering the top.
Wide mouth canning funnel
Very handy to keep the rims clean while filling them. If you have a steady hand, this is not necessary, but it sure makes things go smoothly.
Canning Book
A good canning book walks you through these easy-to-do steps and provides you with more thorough details. The Bell Blue Book we carry is a GREAT resource.
Canner rack
Sits in the bottom of the pot to keep jars upright and in place.
Canning Jars Canning jars & lids are designed for home canning. Do not use just any jar — the glass in commercial brand jars is not tempered as it is in canning jars and the surface of the jar rim is narrower and more likely to chip or crack.
A heavy dish towel or absorbent mat
To sit the hot jars on after they’re removed from the canner. Don’t put them on a cool or cold surface.
Two-piece lids
Sealing caps should never be re-used. You’ll need fresh new ones each time you do canning.
Jar Lifter
They resemble wide tongs. You may think you can use regular tongs, but the jars can get heavy and be difficult to lift out of the boiling water. This is definitely the right tool for the job situation.
Clean dish cloths
To wipe the rims before placing the caps on the jars.
Food Mill
This is very handy for many items in order to produce clear juice or strain out skins or seeds (like for applesauce). It is optional, but makes your canning life a lot easier.
Cheesecloth or a jelly bag This is optional, but really handy to produce a clear juice or remove seeds from fruits when you want to make jelly.
Non-metallic spatula Releases trapped air bubbles. This makes your food look prettier and fills in the jar better, but isn’t necessary.